Wheelie Bars?

I was getting a little air last year, made some changes and a little concern about wheel standing the car.

What wheelie bar set up do you guys use?

I'm going to have to do some welding and modify any brackets I use because my rear end housing has the support bracket on it. Any recomendations?

I just have a cheapie Competition Engineering set, but they work when I have them on the car.

I put a set of skinny kid bars on for engine tuning and if the class allows them we leave them on. We don't use them for tuning the chassis but really just for a little insurance. We actually need them on the big end not the starting line.

Definitely go with a dual wheel wheelie bar because they give you the added benefit of some side-to-side launch prelaod fine tuning adjustability (by staggering wheel heights) that you loose with a single wheel setup.

If your wanting to go with an un-sprung "all tubing" wheelie bar the minimum in my opinion is at least 70 inches long, (more as a car gets faster & faster) and using at least 1-1/8 moly tubing (but 1-1/4 is better).

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Definitely go with a dual wheel wheelie bar because they give you the added benefit of some side-to-side launch prelaod fine tuning adjustability (by staggering wheel heights) that you loose with a single wheel setup.

If your wanting to go with an un-sprung "all tubing" wheelie bar the minimum in my opinion is at least 70 inches long, (more as a car gets faster & faster) and using at least 1-1/8 moly tubing (but 1-1/4 is better).

3:32am Don't you sleep????

mine are 60 inches. we bought them cheap though.

whatbumper wrote:3:32am Don't you sleep????

Used to work midnight shift. Did so for 20+ years, old habits are hard to break some days/nights.

Hate to bring back an old thread ,but I couldn't find the answer ......... Can I pin all 4 locations on the bars

Mine on my Tbird are 50" unsprung made out of about 1" tubing. I bought them off ebay for $150 and had to weld them up. I ride them hard for about 40'. I've got them set low to where my front wheels only can lift about 10"

bruno wrote:Hate to bring back an old thread ,but I couldn't find the answer ......... Can I pin all 4 locations on the bars

sure, if you use good pins.

On a dual wheel wheelie bar using lock-ball type pull pins on all 6 points (four 3/8 pins at housing, and two 1/2 pins back at the wheels) is usually OK. But you could also save a few bucks & only use the pull pins back at the wheels & use grade 8 bolts at the housing.

Any special quality of pins to look for

And these bars that I have were made with a bracket that ties the top and bottom bars together do I need to unholy them

The "cheap" pull pins made of material similar to grade 2-5 bolt material, and having either a spring-loaded ball or drilled holes & hitch pins can sometimes be OK for the two 1/2" OD wheel end pins. But I wouldn't use the cheaper pins for the smaller 3/8 housing attachment points.

The best/strongest pull pins are the aircraft quality locking-ball pins having the push button that releases the locking ball. They can have a head with either a "T" handle, "L" handle, or round with no handle.

The small side bracket/pivoting link assembly that ties the top/bottom bars together at about the 1/2 way point is usually used on higher HP and/or more violent combos to help keep the bar flexing/bowing in check under loading.

they offer it in stainless steel or alloy steel ...which one would be better ?

bruno wrote:they offer it in stainless steel or alloy steel ...which one would be better ?

the ones you use!!!

the Coug wrote:

bruno wrote:they offer it in stainless steel or alloy steel ...which one would be better ?

the ones you use!!!

so it doesnt matter Randy ?

bruno wrote:

the Coug wrote:

bruno wrote:they offer it in stainless steel or alloy steel ...which one would be better ?

the ones you use!!!

so it doesnt matter Randy ?

Bruno correct me if I am wrong but you said sissy stix was for P@^^YS

Bruno I would use alloy steel unless you have a really good welder for stainless, and then I would still use mild steel...

I wouldnt use stainless in that app but i'm sure some do with good success.

Mine came with pins and i just used grade 8 bolts instead. I'm not scared of spinin' a wrench lol.

Mine are Pinned.

bruno wrote:they offer it in stainless steel or alloy steel ...which one would be better ?

Are we talking about push/pull pin material, w/b tubing material, or the material the 2 vertical links tying the top/bottom bars together are made of?

THXS GUYS

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

bruno wrote:they offer it in stainless steel or alloy steel ...which one would be better ?

Are we talking about push/pull pin material, w/b tubing material, or the material the 2 vertical links tying the top/bottom bars together are made of?

push/pull pins Dave

bruno wrote:

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

bruno wrote:they offer it in stainless steel or alloy steel ...which one would be better ?

Are we talking about push/pull pin material, w/b tubing material, or the material the 2 vertical links tying the top/bottom bars together are made of?

push/pull pins Dave

Ah, ok.
I'm pretty sure the strongest locking ball pin shafts are made of aircraft steel & not stainless because they are damn hard to scuff/gouge, but I could be wrong. I would think stainless would be too soft.


Bickel has a decent selection.

http://www.jerrybickel.com/fastener-hardware/push-pull-pins-1.html

thank you for the link Dave