Another oil pressure problem, please help!!!

Went to Gateways Allstar Outlaw 1/4 10.0 race.
First and second pass oil pressure was 60 psi in the pits, down the track, and on return road.
The third pass the oil dropped to 40 at the end of the run.
Fourth run the gauge was jumping from 40-60 when cruising to the lanes. Ran 60 down the track and 20-5 down return road.
Fith run 40 to the lanes, 60 down the track, 20 again down return road.
Sixth run gauge jumping from 40-60 to the lanes, 55 down the track and 20 again on return road.
Seventh run gauge jumping from 50-60 to the lanes, 60 down the track and 30 on return road.

I don't have an oil temp gauge or oil cooler, but when the motor gets warm the oil pressure goes to crap.

The motor never got hotter than 180 the entire day. No knocking from the rockers, no bent push rods.
I have a stock block (no oil mods), milodon 8 qt front sump pan with windage tray, meling high volume pump. Use vr1 10-50 oil with oreillys oil filter. I had plenty of oil in it.

I hope to God that it is an easy fix.
I aprreciate your time
Justin

Put a good Ford Racing,Wix,Jomar or equivalent oil filter on it and see what happens. Don't use a Fram. Good Luck

X2 on the filter, JOMAR prefered if its my choice.

10-50 Typo? May want to try 10-40 ???

Where do you get the Jomar oil filters from?

Is the block filled?

tiger wrote:Where do you get the Jomar oil filters from?

We got'em in stock.

Could it be the HV pump. Maybe it's pumping too much to the top of the engine?

yes its 20-50 vr1 racing oil

I was thinking that the filter is causing a restriction
or
the pump was pumping all of the oil to the top of the motor, and the windage tray preventing the oil from returning to the pan.

Like I said it only happens when the oil is warm towards the end of a race day. I always change the oil/filter before every race day.

Lem how tall are the jomar oil filters???

Justin

Same as standard FL1A or FL1-HP.

If the oil pressure is jumping around (fluttering the gauge from 40 to 60) you may have cracked the pump at the base or have a pick up tube cracked, they'll open up when the temp comes up....Been there and done that. Especially if it's a stock type pump. The Kasse pump is made much thicker at the base for this reason. Good luck..

The pressure stays constant during the run. If the pickup or pump was cracked would it cause the pressure to be good while making a pass but low while just cruising?

No the block is not filled.

I guess I can try a new/better filter (jomar) and see what happens. If that doesn't fix it I will be purchasing a Kaase oil pump.

Justin

That did the same on a D1 block I had in the Maverick. I tore it down and found #2 webbing cracked on both sides all the way to cam journal.pressure was good under accl. but was like a jumping jack other times. While you have the pan off spray Brake cleaner all over your main webb's and oil pump. If you have any cracks they will show usually after the brake cleaner drys. Like said.Good Luck

I know this would be down the road but does the a460 block have the oil mods and could I still use my a429 scj heads?
Thanks
Justin

FMS A460 block has a dedicated race type oiling system, no mods are necessary to it other than correct restrictor sizing for the application.

A429 heads work well on a A460 Block

jcoxracing wrote:I know this would be down the road but does the a460 block have the oil mods and could I still use my a429 scj heads?
Thanks
Justin

please pull the pan off and check in between the #2 webing as rick suggested.esecally if you have some good parts to put in another block while you can,dont ask me how i know this

A460 block dont need any oil mods lol, its heads and shoulders above a stock fully modded block.

And yes the heads will work just fine.

I think I found the problem,
I dropped the pan to find out pickup was completely off of the pump.
Can you put loctite on the pickup bolts?
Thanks for all of the replies
Justin

jcoxracing wrote:I think I found the problem,
I dropped the pan to find out pickup was completely off of the pump.
Can you put loctite on the pickup bolts?
Thanks for all of the replies
Justin

Yes, you can put Loc-tite on the pickup bolts. Also, make sure to use some kind of gasket or RTV sealant where the pick-up joins the pump body. Another thing I would do is carefully check and make sure the long neck of the oil pump is not broken, and that the bolts holding the pump to the block are tight. Preferably the pump needs to be braced with a metal strap over to the #1 main cap bolt.

Hope this helps,
Charlie

Something else you may want to do is weld an extension to the bolt on section of the pickup tube to include covering the soft plug @ the pressure spring. I've had them break the back out there where the cotter key goes through and shoot the spring into the pan..... Zero oil pressure right now......... do it while it is apart even though this is not the problem you are speaking of. Just a little preventive maitainence

Travis

Good point Travis.....that's why I have the flanges for the custom pan's pickups made like this.....

Thanks Charlie, I will definitely be using loctite.
Travis do you have any pics of what you are talking about? I haven't ever seen that done before
Thanks
Justin

Dang Lem you are good.
Ill be calling you tomorrow for a gasket and some filters.
Justin

Lem do you have any of those pickups for a front sump pump?
Justin