Possible oil pressure problem. Need help. Still can't get this thing to idle.

Guys,

I can't get this damn thing to idle worth a crap while in gear? I don't think it's the converter dragging it down either. Any ideas on setting the idle to it to NOT drop so much rpm when it's put in gear? I got it about 2 turns out right now. Seems to like that. The butterlfys are both set the same as far as the idle is concerned too... Any ideas? idles at about 1300 and drops to about 850 and wants to die...

Other than that it works fine on the track... Car ran a best of 11.76 last night. 466, .600 lift cam, stock cleanup D0VEs, Victor, C6, 3.73s, drag radials, etc...

close the secd's . adjust the pri.'s

A lean condition can make the engine unhappy when it sees the load from the conv.

I'll try resetting the idle with just the primary side. Any downside to not using the secondary side for idle?

which air bleed is the idle circuit? This is a 3 circuit deal.

Id set all 4 corners like it was intended to be. Idle mixture sounds lean.

Does the distributor have a timing curve...?

There is mechanical advance in the dizzy, no vacuum. It's an MSD. It's about 14* at idle. Comes to 32 total at or before 3000 rpms.

The idle mixture is already out at 2 turns. I'll try tweaking them some more. What do you guys usually do? I find the stumble/change point with the idle screw and then back out 1 or 2 full turns. Sound good?

John.... Is there a reason you want it to idle at 1300 in neutral? Id try to tune the carb at a closer to in gear rpm like 1000. Otherwise, id also try some more initial timing. You might have the throttle blades open too far and are getting into the transition circuit . That can cause the deal to seem lean also. Air bleeds closest to adjusting screws are idle circuit or furthest away from the vent tube. Hope this helps.

jbozzelle wrote:There is mechanical advance in the dizzy, no vacuum. It's an MSD. It's about 14* at idle. Comes to 32 total at or before 3000 rpms.

The idle mixture is already out at 2 turns. I'll try tweaking them some more. What do you guys usually do? I find the stumble/change point with the idle screw and then back out 1 or 2 full turns. Sound good?

I would check to see if there is some ignition timing coming "in & out" between those two RPM levels; it shouldn't change. If it does then you will need to rectify that situation for the idle to act right...

sounds like it needs light springs and the black bushing.

I've been running the 8896 for 2 years now and I've gotten a lot of help from people on here and the other forum. Here is a link to the other forum where Lem, Randy and company gave me a lot of good advice. I recommend locking the timing out and installing a start retard box. I fought the same issues with idle speed. Locking out the timing along with these changes made a huge difference. http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121852

Here's another one from this site. https://www.429-460.com/engine-tech-f2/footbrake-car-need-more-1050-holley-tuning-advice-t5330.htm?highlight=8896+1050

And one more from a couple of weeks ago. It runs good now but I'm still going to try a few more things. https://www.429-460.com/engine-tech-f2/need-carb-tuning-advice-again-8896-holley-1050-t7133.htm?highlight=8896+1050

Thanks guys. I does seem like a timing issue. Idle is real touchy and jumps around a good bit with just the smallest of changes to the mixture or throttle blades. I'll check the springs and bushings to see what's in there.

jbozzelle wrote:Thanks guys. I does seem like a timing issue. Idle is real touchy and jumps around a good bit with just the smallest of changes to the mixture or throttle blades. I'll check the springs and bushings to see what's in there.

Just to be clear, you want NO mechanical advance to happen till just above your highest idle speed in nuetral.
Then, as fast as possible, short advance curve after that.

As has been said, locking out the timing with "start retard" capability is the easy way.

Gotcha. I'll check it to see if it's in the curve while in neutral than falls out of it when in gear. I'll lock it with some wire just to check if I have to.

Putting the light silver springs in it is the cheap way.

Lem Evans wrote:Putting the light silver springs in it is the cheap way.

To get full advance at idle?

To get enought timing at idle to make the engine happy and all in by 2,000 rpm.

OK, thanks. I'll mess with it later this week and see what I can come up with.

John,

I have my Dizzy here that has the advace pined. Your welcome to try it to see if it make a difference.

Thanks. I'll call you if I need it.

PS. I heard your old car has found a new home...

jbozzelle wrote:Thanks. I'll call you if I need it.

PS. I heard your old car has found a new home...

Yea Is it to the same guy that got the motor out of it?

Blue Oval Forever wrote:

jbozzelle wrote:Thanks. I'll call you if I need it.

PS. I heard your old car has found a new home...

Yea Is it to the same guy that got the motor out of it?

Sure is. I just got home from helping him pick it up and bring it home. I still remember when that car was at Jeff's many moons ago getting the cage done...

jbozzelle wrote:

Blue Oval Forever wrote:

jbozzelle wrote:Thanks. I'll call you if I need it.

PS. I heard your old car has found a new home...

Yea Is it to the same guy that got the motor out of it?

Sure is. I just got home from helping him pick it up and bring it home. I still remember when that car was at Jeff's many moons ago getting the cage done...

Glad to see it is still around' Wish I could have afforded to buy it back. The motor is still in the garage on the stand.