Greenbean - The 98GT - turbo 460 swap

I started fitting the stock 4.6 wiring harness on the 460. It fits fairly well but the loom is pretty crunchy and any new bends results in the loom breaking. Only a few connectors will need to be lengthened to fit.

In a moment of genius I destroyed the plug wires.... Just before I realized that they would fit and work fine.   I just keep telling myself that they needed replacing anyway.

Poop.

BigBlockRanger wrote:In a moment of genius I destroyed the plug wires.... Just before I realized that they would fit and work fine.   I just keep telling myself that they needed replacing anyway.

Poop.

Sounds like something I would do

I finally got around to installing the updated Punisher valve body in the E4OD. Paul adjusted it to have even firmer shifts. Getting the pan off the trans is a bit of a trick seeing that the passenger side header almost traps it. Enough perseverance and spilled trans fluid gets it done though. Haha.

Sounds like the trans pan needs a drain plug if it doesn’t already have one.

Plug wires on, and the water pump is mostly connected.

Shifter is mounted. I might make some cup holders to mount where the stock shifter went.

I had to crawl under the dash yesterday to connect the neutral safety switch from the trans to the clutch pedal position switch. This car has a power driver's seat so I could not get to the bolts to remove it. I had to do everything with one hand because I couldn't get both arms up under there. Sooooooo dang hard, but it's done. lol.

I also discovered some good news about the PATS system. The particular EEC-V strategy that I have has a flag known as PATS_DISABLE (SW_ANTI_THEFT) that will allow me to turn PATS off. So I can now go back to my original plan and write a start-up tune to my chip without having to buy a Quarterhorse and extract my stock tune.

I cut out a plate to cover the original shifter hole and finished most of the trans controller wiring. This plate will serve as a solid foundation for the cup holders.



Archiving efi settings that I have changed thus far.

   

1. Global Fuel K-Constant – to 30
      AHISL – injector high slope to 30
      FN1329 - injector firing order (15426378)
      DISPL_LITERS - engine displacement to 7.5
      PATS_DISABLE (SW_ANTI_THEFT) set to ON
      FADPT_SW - Allow Adaptive Fuel – OFF (set for basic tuning)
      SARCHG CID Engine Size to 460
      Mass Airflow Transfer – used 80mm Pro M values (30lb) provided by decipha
      TSTRAT to 0 for no transmission control
   

I welded a stub to the shifter cover plate that will serve as a mounting point for cup holders or a phone holder or whatever I want. The stock 5 speed shifter boot will finish it out.

Add a hoop to the passenger side of the stub as an oh s**h handle

Some changes to Greenbean.  Originally, I hoped to put a centrifugal supercharger on it in the stockish mod motor location, but the lack of room up front nixed that idea.  So I resolved to keeping it NA and moved on with the project. But, now that the HT60 and stuff is just sitting there on the table, I am going to try to use it on this car. Initial thought is it will be mounted on the passenger side and will utilize the spacious fenderwell to aid with hot side piping. Those inner fenders are huge. The Hooker long tubes i worked so hard to get in will come out and I will slip the stock efi460 manifolds in.  I feel like the HT60 is probably a better match for a 460 than it was a 552. Boost will be kept low, but I feel like 600 hp should be easy peasy and have cruise and ac.  I guess I am getting old. Haha.

Headers. Wow the headers were hard to get off. More specifically the passenger side was really hard to get off. The bolts were super tight and I used some Allen head bolts and they were super hard to access to loosen. Then, the header didn't want to come out of the car. I removed the two slip joint tubes but it was still stuck and required a hammer to get it out. Haha. The driver's side was a bit easier. I took off the valve cover to give me more working room. I got the bolts out fairly easy, then crawled under, moved the steering shaft and the header darn near fell out and almost hit me in the face. Cars are stupid.

All right. It looks like flipping the manifolds left to right is going to work but it's not going to be a quickie bolt-on like I had hoped. I had to trim the coil/ps reservoir bracket just a little bit and I will have to relocate my electric water pump.

Driver's side: I cut down the rearmost bolt boss on the manifold to provide additional clearance for the steering shaft. I think the oil filter will even fit fine. The tubing will definitely need to be wrapped because it will pass by the back of the ps pump and plenty of wiring looms. The real driver's side manifold was a no go. The pipe flange was trying to occupy the same space as the steering shaft.

Passenger side: at first glance it looks like this side is going to bolt right on no problem. But, a closer look reveals there is definitely a problem. The AJE engine mount interferes with the pipe flange on this side preventing the manifold from seating flat. I considered using a header flange as a spacer to move the manifold away from the head and create some more space, but I think a better course of action would be to modify the engine mount and never think about it again. A friend with a turbo 460 had a similar problem and tried the header flange spacer deal on his Comet with marginal success. The mount is easy to get to right now and I think I can come up with a solution that will clear everything and work well. I would rather do that, than try to shim out the manifold or do something goofy.

I took the motor mount out, bolted the manifold back on and started trimming the mount to clear the exhaust manifold. Once I got it where it would slip right in, I took a chunk of curved metal (an old alternator adjustment mount) and made a piece that curves under the manifold and attaches to the block plate. I need to add a small gusset and I will be happy with it. It looks like it is going to work fine.

Motor mount finished, painted and bolted on. Smog fittings in both manifolds were welded closed and the manifolds are bolted on. They are fairly easy to get on. Way easier than headers. The headers have 16 bolts that are hard to get to, the manifolds only have 1. Haha. The bolt by the steering shaft has to go in first with the manifold. Otherwise it is just close enough that you can't slide in place. Now that I think about it, an Allen head bolt would probably have been ideal in that location. The pic makes it look closer than it really is. The joint is below the bolt a little way.

With the addition of a turbo and an MS1 just sitting, I am going to use the Megasquirt instead of trying to use the stock ECU. It kind of changes the scope of this project a bit, but I think it will be easier to tune and use. The coil igniters I used on the truck can be used with the stock EDIS coils, so it could be fairly easy to adapt. I would need to swap the temp sensors, balancer spacer and the crank sensor from the truck motor. I ordered an EEC-V break-out board so I can keep the stock harness basically untouched.

I got a good start on the turbo mount today. I ended up rotating it more than initially planned so the lower tube ended up lower than I really wanted, but the top tube is fine.

The down pipe is going to be interesting. Not 100% sure what the plan is going to be there but I have a few ideas brewing. I want to avoid a fender/front exit if at all possible.

Wastegate is mounted and I am close to connecting up the passenger side manifold piping. Pipes are 2.5" off the manifolds and will merge to a single 3". I'm trying to just use all the piping I salvaged from the yellow truck's hot side. So far, so good.

This *should* all tuck behind the stock inner fender splash guard and be out of sight.

Hot side is all fabbed up and mostly welded. I was running low on welding gas so I just tacked the rest together.

Before I finish welded the flex pipe, I went back and sleeved it like I did on the 83GT. Basically just inserted a floating piece of tubing inside it to keep it from collapsing internally.
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Overall I am happy with how everything fits. Turbo placement is good, pipes tuck in and don't hang down, everything seems somewhat accessible for servicing.

Hot side is done. I didn't run out of welding gas but I did run out of wire. Haha. Luckily HFT is close by, so I zipped over there and bought a couple rolls.

It drops completely out by removing the 4 manifold nuts and one v-band.

I shot it with some high temp bbq pain to make it somewhat presentable. It's not like anyone will ever see it under there though.

The EEC-V break-out pcb from www.rusefi.com showed up this week.

I had to liberate the 104 pin connector from the stock ecu. After struggling for a while trying to desolder it with a soldering iron & sucker, I busted out the propane torch and had it off in a few seconds.

From this board I will make a harness that adapts the EEC-V harness to the Megasquirt ecu.

Turbo is finally mounted. Somehow it was not fitting the flange like I intended (no surprise really), so I hacked out a 3/8" spacer and that fixed the problem very nicely. I am glad this part is finally done because this thing is super heavy and has smashed my fingers a gazillion times taking it in and out.

The other pic shows how the break-out pcb fits in the eec-v case. It required a little trimming of the case, but was nothing a cutoff wheel couldn't handle. I soldered all 104 pins to the pcb today.

Next job is punching the pan for the turbo drain.

My buddy Jonathan and I were goofing off with the intake tube and we accidentally did this. It fit like it was made for it. Works for me. Haha.

I am going to run it without an intercooler to start with. The 83GT seems to do fine without one but if intake temps start to get unruly, I will figure out how to plumb an IC somewhere.

Crank spacer and Megasquirt compatible crank sensor are installed. These are from the 552.

I also started on the downpipe. It's hard to get the scale of this stuff in pics. That is a 5 inch pipe I attempted to mash into an oval wityh the hydraulic press. Sorta worked, not exactly oval, but that really doesn't matter. This will get shortened and transitioned to a smaller pipe and will wiggle over the front tire and then under the car. I am thinking a 3.5" pipe will be sufficient for what I am doing.

Starting to get back to where I was before I decided to add a turbo.

Down pipe 2.0 under construction. I like this one much better than 1.0.
It is a 5" vertical oval that transitions to a 5" horizontal oval then to two 2.5" pipes.



I started working on a downpipe 3.0, but there is just not enough room to 90° a 5" pipe. And if I tried to use a partial bend, it would still need to be squished and would end up being very similar to V2.0.

So I continued on with 2.0. I trimmed up and rounded off the end of the pipe so there is now curvature directing the exhaust gasses toward the rear. I also double walled the side and rounded part. There was some concern over on the turboforums that it might hot spot the pipe opposite the turbo and eventually burn thru. I figure it will be fine now.

I also continued on with the exhaust a bit. Once the pipes are wrapped, the fender liner should conceal them pretty well.