Greenbean - The 98GT - turbo 460 swap

Located the sump, cut the holes and a screwed it in place for welding. Next I will pressure wash the inside with soap and then weld the sump on.

I pressure washed the tank and then welded the sump to it. I tried real hard to not overheat the plastic fuel module retainer, but it caught fire anyway. Great.

Once I was finished welding, I put some soapy water in it to check for leaks. It had 2 pin hole leaks I had to touch up. One of them I had to do twice.

This one turned out much better than the one I did on the 83GT. It leaked like crazy until I sealed it with Red Kote. It has been fine ever since.

You earn it when you burn it!!

Tank is done and back in the car. It's pretty low-key and will be even moreso if I put a small hitch back there for the Raceweek trailer.

Popped the diff cover to drain the fluid. Diff has 2.73's in it. I think I may just replace the pinion seal and put fresh fluid back in for now. I probably won't change the ratio much anyway because I don't expect to turn a gazillion rpm with this motor. I'm thinking 3.27's maybe.

Jake's M&H 28-12.5's look enormous under there.

Welp. Nope. Can't leave it alone. Picked up a set of 3.27's locally and ordered a clutch kit for the Trac-lok. I figured I might as well do it now since I am here.

Gears are done. I am very happy with how they turned out, but dang I hate doing them on the floor under the car. Maybe I need to put a 9" in everything I own!

I also test fit a couple of wheels and mashed some longer wheel studs in the axles.

I just sat here and read through this whole thread. It’s good to see your progress as I’m gathering parts and getting things ready for my swap into a 2006 Mustang. Keep up the good work.

About 5 versions later, I finally have an EEC to Megasquirt enclosure that I am happy with. Haha.

I put the stock exhaust tips in to promote the sleeper look even though they are not connected.



I got a new USB-serial cable and it works WORLDS better than the old one. I set up a trans tune in the Bauman software and successfully copied it to the controller.

I didn't have a TPS signal so I checked the tps wiring for continuity and proper connection. Everything checked out fine. I added a ground to the intake from the TPS (per DIYAutotune's website) then hooked up the battery. TPS works perfectly now. Both the MS and the Bauman have a signal now.

I kept hearing something running when the key was on and thought it had something to do with the AC fan. Nope, it was the electric water pump. So I guess that works.
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I also made a test print of a custom emblem for the fenders.

Figured out why the intake air temp sensor was not working. Seems you actually have to connect it to the right wires in order for it to operate as expected. Haha. I hate cars.

On a positive note, I was able to bump the motor over and get all four converter nuts on.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I put the stock exhaust tips in to promote the sleeper look even though they are not connected.



I got a new USB-serial cable and it works WORLDS better than the old one. I set up a trans tune in the Bauman software and successfully copied it to the controller.

I didn't have a TPS signal so I checked the tps wiring for continuity and proper connection. Everything checked out fine. I added a ground to the intake from the TPS (per DIYAutotune's website) then hooked up the battery. TPS works perfectly now. Both the MS and the Bauman have a signal now.

I kept hearing something running when the key was on and thought it had something to do with the AC fan. Nope, it was the electric water pump. So I guess that works.
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I also made a test print of a custom emblem for the fenders.

Figured out why the intake air temp sensor was not working. Seems you actually have to connect it to the right wires in order for it to operate as expected. Haha. I hate cars.

On a positive note, I was able to bump the motor over and get all four converter nuts on.

I need 2 of them fender badges but I need them to say 347 instead of 460 I building a 98 gt with a small block

Ordered some rear tires for it. I went with a Nitto 555 R2. I wanted a drag radial on the back but also wanted something that would do ok street driving and be durable, The R2 seems to have a reputation as being a goods street tire and an ok drag radial. Not as good as a MT ET Street on the track, but also not as treacherous in the rain. The MT tires are crazy expensive so that was also a consideration. So basically I compromised. I don't think this car will 60 foot super fast anyway (guessing 1.6x 60's times) so they will probably be fine.

This decision also has Raceweek implications. I have slicks that fit this car and the 83GT, but the True Street classes require a DOT approved tire. So if we decide to do TS, we can run these tires all week. At the track and on the road if we want. The drawback is with 552" of mega-torquey BBF power, it may be quite hard to get a clean launch.

BigBlockRanger wrote:Ordered some rear tires for it. I went with a Nitto 555 R2. I wanted a drag radial on the back but also wanted something that would do ok street driving and be durable, The R2 seems to have a reputation as being a goods street tire and an ok drag radial. Not as good as a MT ET Street on the track, but also not as treacherous in the rain. The MT tires are crazy expensive so that was also a consideration. So basically I compromised. I don't think this car will 60 foot super fast anyway (guessing 1.6x 60's times) so they will probably be fine.

This decision also has Raceweek implications. I have slicks that fit this car and the 83GT, but the True Street classes require a DOT approved tire. So if we decide to do TS, we can run these tires all week. At the track and on the road if we want. The drawback is with 552" of mega-torquey BBF power, it may be quite hard to get a clean launch.

Do you have a spare 3rd member and any 3.00 or 3.25 gears laying around to play with on the 83GT? It may tame the launch down and work for you on the BigEnd with your tightish Convertor and smallish camshaft. The 60ft times those highway gears can lay down might surprise you. I knew a few street racers that would do it with like a 50 shot to get out of the hole back in the day, with the Sneaky Pete Bottles on a Vacuum Line or small jets in a Cheater Plate just screwing around at the Track. Since your EFI, I would not think a small Dry Shot would be much trouble or some small Fogger Jets in your main system if you run a plate. With all the Electronic's you now have on the 83GT I would think consistent on/off triggering would not be much trouble either.

The GreenBean is looking nice. It was very smart to change out those old Traction Lok clutch's while you where in there. That should really help it. Don't forget the additive.

I do not have any spare gears. The one set of 3.27's I had went into GB to replace the stock 2.73's.

More than likely we will run Big Block NA. We can run any tire we want in that class so we will definitely be using the 28 10.5 slicks.

^ I thought you had a 9" in the 83 for some reason. How long before the race comes up?

If you snuck that bigger cam in there, those 3.55's will probably work better.

Check your box, someone in your hood had a C9 and D0VE block they were going to scrap, might be junk or something worth while.

Having just finished Rocky Mountain Race Week in the 83GT where the temps were just a tick under 100 degrees, I decided this car will need more radiator. I bought a 31x19 dual pass radiator and it showed up today. I wasted no time jamming it into the car. It really didn't require much work as it fits in the space very nicely. The gigantic stock electric fan even fits and clears everything.

I got some Nittos for this car too. I hope I am done buying tires for a while.



More switcheroos for this car even before it runs. Haha. I traded Jake my SBF AOD for his mod motor 4R70W. The E4OD is probably a great transmission, but it's a gigantic sucker and the aftermarket stuff available for it is kinda limited. Soooo, I picked up a Quicktime bellhousing and am going to stab the 4R70W into this car. I guess we'll see how this goes.

If you wasn't so far away from me I have a Fiberglass hood that would look good on your car it just needs a little fiberglass repair. I had on my 98 gt. I hit a bobcat one morning going to work it pulled the hood pins out and the hood took the windshield out and cracked the hood up in a couple places and took the pulled the hinge bolts out of it. I bought a 2000 Ranger like my drag truck and put the 347 and the t5 in.

Radiator and fan are mounted. I trimmed up a 5.7L Grand Cherokee upper hose to fit. Turned out pretty good. There is plenty of room by the belt, but I may loop a big zip tie over it to keep it from flopping around.

New territory for me. I started cutting the bellhousing off the 4r70w. Seems to be going ok. A 1.5" radiator hose slips over the input shaft nicely to keep material out of the transmission.

All done. Not super hard. You just have to trim it back enough that the bellhousing sits flush on the pump and indexes inside the lip. A sawzall with a coarse blade works well followed by a flappy wheel in an angle grinder.

I rolled GB out, turned it around and put it back in it's spot. Not an easy job to do by yourself on the super slick concrete!

This was also the first time the car has been on the ground with the new wheels and tires. I am very happy with the fit and ride height.

I did some throttlebody switcherooing with the 83GT. This one will let me use the stock hood so I can maintain it's stealthiness. Haha.

Also a 4r70w with converter weighs right around 200 lbs.

Took a vacation to Hawaii and did a lot of thinking about my project cars and what I want from each of them. I came to the conclusion that I don't want both Mustangs to slide into the same niche. I want the 98 to be more street oriented and the 83 to be more racecary oriented. It's real easy in my mind to start driving each project in the same direction and end up with 2 cars that serve the same purpose. This thing is real close to running and driving so I am going to forego the 4R70W trans swap and continue on with the E4OD that is already in it. I am actually strongly considering put the 4R in the 83 so it will have overdrive...

I monkeyed with getting the water pump mounted. It doesn't quite fit like it used to with the thinner radiator and I didn't like how I had it set up.

Moved the water pump today. I like this location much better The pump should be a lot easier to service should the need arise.
This is where the battery normally goes on an SN95, but the larger radiator took up some of the battery space. I was faced with probably having to put the battery in the trunk anyway. Putting the battery in the trunk is not my favorite thing to do. In fact it's one of the things I wish I hadn't done on the 83 but don't really have a lot of choice in this situation.

Now that the water pump situation is straightened out, it's time to get back to the electronics end of things.

Today's task was simply to see if I had the electric fan wired properly for the MS to control it. The circuitry of Ford's CCRM thingamabob can be difficult to figure out.

I hooked up the jump box to provide power and set the fan on temperature to 50° F. I sent it to the MS and the fan kicked on just like it should.

Also stuck the water pump fuse back in just to make sure it would turn on. Yep.

I think the only things I have left are:

intake air temperature sensor
fuel pressure gauge
set fuel pressure
add fluids
prelube the engine and then turn the key and see if it'll start

While I was waiting for the air compressor to catch up while working on the 83GT's header adapters, I started pulling the E4OD out of Greenbean. (Yes, the 4r70 is going in.) I really didn't expect to have it out, but here we are. Haha.

It wasn't the easiest to get loose because the middle bellhousing bolts were completely hidden up in there.

I might have tried to put the 4r70 in but the 4r's converter pattern is the 10.5" and the E4OD's flexplate has the 11.5" pattern.

I'll figure it out.

Well, I figured it out. Evidently no one makes a BBF flexplate with the 10.5" pattern. So I did what any self respecting hot rodder does, I drilled a brand new flexplate with the 10.5" pattern.

This flexplate has 2 GM three bolt patterns and the large Ford 4 bolt already so one more pattern shouldn't be a big deal. It really turned out good. I picked this particular one because it has a larger flat area and would accommodate the 10.5 pattern nicely.