newbie to transbrakes.. info on how it works

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Post  richter69 on January 12th 2013, 10:51 am

I used one of those, mine was set to just idle in on the wood, also had it set to slam open on the 2 step a second then the tbrake and 2 step would release together like normal. I tried using it like you are going to........ it worked more like a footbrake car......... mine never liked it. The throttle enhancer is great for a faster car that runs a class with a lot of slower ones.

Imo the split second in the 2step wont build excess heat or kill bearings............ just have to see how yours likes being setup like your wanting to do it but both of mine didnt.
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Post  David Cole on January 12th 2013, 9:37 pm

With the delay box controlling the starting line control, can you adjust the release time? On my K&R delay box the time is non adjustable. I will go to wot .80 sec before release of the transbrake. Always .80 sec. Motor would have plenty of time to be up against the converter. Most of the time a bracket car will work better if you are NOT all the way against the converter on launch.

I would not worry about the popping/banging on the 2 step. If you use the starting line control it's not going to be on the chip for long. If you have a Digital box it pretty much gets rid of all of it. The Digital boxes never drop a cyl twice in row....so far less popping from fuel loaded cylinders.

IMHO, use the starting line control together with a 2 step, launching at 1200-1800 rpm below the flash stall of the converter.
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Post  maverick on January 13th 2013, 12:43 pm

That 100 degree per second temperature rise that Randy mentioned is pretty accurate. That same info is included in the literature that you receive when you buy a new trans from JW's. It's important to realize that that temp rise happens IN THE CONVERTER, not in the pan, so even though you don't see it on your trans temp gauge, you can can fry your trans fluid pretty quickly if you're one of those guys who stages the car and immediately goes on the chip and waits for the other guy to stage. That's why I wait for the second amber light on a sportsman (.500) full tree before I mat the throttle.
Pro tree doesn't allow so much time to overcook it.

It's also the reason I do fairly frequent trans fluid changes. When the fluid is burned, the trans ain't too far behind.
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Post  the Coug on January 13th 2013, 4:24 pm

maverick wrote:That 100 degree per second temperature rise that Randy mentioned is pretty accurate. That same info is included in the literature that you receive when you buy a new trans from JW's. It's important to realize that that temp rise happens IN THE CONVERTER, not in the pan, so even though you don't see it on your trans temp gauge, you can can fry your trans fluid pretty quickly if you're one of those guys who stages the car and immediately goes on the chip and waits for the other guy to stage. That's why I wait for the second amber light on a sportsman (.500) full tree before I mat the throttle.
Pro tree doesn't allow so much time to overcook it.

It's also the reason I do fairly frequent trans fluid changes. When the fluid is burned, the trans ain't too far behind.





Maverick don't give them any thing to ponder I know this is what my converter guy said But what The Hell does he know he has been building converters before most of these guys were shitting in their Diapers.....
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Post  richter69 on January 13th 2013, 5:25 pm

97.653 degrees
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Post  maverick on January 13th 2013, 7:22 pm

I rounded up.
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Post  whatbumper on January 13th 2013, 9:00 pm

To the OP, let me rephrase my statement in light of the experts here.

In MY situation with a powerglide, turbo, 3100lb car, NO cooler, 1/8 mile only with no towing, it did not rise near that much. We are usually on the brake for 4-6 seconds since we bump in with it. And my temp sensor is not in the pan or converter feed circuit.

Either way, in a NA situation you will barely be on the brake once you get a system in place.

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Post  soupbean on January 14th 2013, 1:09 am

the Coug wrote:
maverick wrote:That 100 degree per second temperature rise that Randy mentioned is pretty accurate. That same info is included in the literature that you receive when you buy a new trans from JW's. It's important to realize that that temp rise happens IN THE CONVERTER, not in the pan, so even though you don't see it on your trans temp gauge, you can can fry your trans fluid pretty quickly if you're one of those guys who stages the car and immediately goes on the chip and waits for the other guy to stage. That's why I wait for the second amber light on a sportsman (.500) full tree before I mat the throttle.
Pro tree doesn't allow so much time to overcook it.

It's also the reason I do fairly frequent trans fluid changes. When the fluid is burned, the trans ain't too far behind.





Maverick don't give them any thing to ponder I know this is what my converter guy said But what The Hell does he know he has been building converters before most of these guys were shitting in their Diapers.....

Calm down Coug Laughing. As far as "I" go, I was really just asking a question of if that was really a fact. Had no part in the questioning of your knowledge brother Cool I myself, appreciate all the info I get on here.
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Post  5pointslow on January 14th 2013, 9:22 am

for what im doing ....i dont think i need starting line control or whatever it is , sounds like a lot going on

just a 2 step and transbrake is what im gonna use , should be fine for 9 sec car on .400 pro tree


thanks
for all the info
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Post  White Lightning on July 23rd 2013, 10:15 pm

Gentleman, let's get a realistic grip on what is really going on in a car with a trans brake.
A trans brake works to lock the car from moving in the beams by applying the low gear and the reverse clutches at the same time and that locks the tailshaft...no car movement, just like being in park as far as car movement goes. Being on the 'brake' causes little to no more heat to the fluid than when the car sits in gear with the foot brakes on. What causes the 100*/second temp rise (IN THE CONVERTER) is the fluid being sheared while holding a high RPM. No matter what kind of starting line/roll control you use if the tailshaft isn't moving and you have your foot in it (or even at a slightly elevated idle) The trans fluid is getting very hot. Period.
Now, as to why a trans brake is used (other for a roll control) is to let the engine be able to come up into its torque range without the car rolling in order to impart more launch force. If you try to foot brake a 700 horse car it easily overcomes the brakes and rolls.... instant lose.
To sumerize:
A trans brake makes no appreciable heat.
No matter what type of starting line engine RPM control you use the higher the locked transmission RPM is, the higher and faster the trans fluid builds heat (IN THE CONVERTER and it DOES break the fluid down).
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