Header input

Wasn't sure which section to put this in, so if this is wrong please feel free to move it.

I have a 1970 mustang fastback pro-street car with rectangle tube chassis.   I have been running the headers that came with the rolling chassis when I bought the car.  They look similar to a Crites style for a factory suspension car where 3 and 7 tubes cross under the motor to the opposite side, and a set of Flowmaster Scavenger series collectors.

These headers have been dented in to clear the starter and a few places already. So looks to me like it would cause unnecessary restrictions and added heat to the oil and pan area.   Looking to upgrade and wondered if a set of Fox body swap headers may bolt on and work on this setup (specs Below)? Approx from the center of the ports on the head to the middle of the collector where the tubes enter is 16".  Approx 4" ground clearence and about 1 1/4" from bottom of the floor pans.  If anyone can give me the measurements for a set of the fox swap header with 2"- 2 1/4" ish range I would be much appreciated.  Don't wanna order a set of headers and they not work. Also if you guys have a particular brand you would recommend throw that in also.  

Looked into a few custom setups and they are anywhere from $1500-2000 plus.   This is just a street/strip car and I don't really want to drop that kinda change on the headers.  Just want a good set of coated or possibly stainless headers for it.  

533 BBF
Kaase SCJ heads stock
JW bell housing to powerglide.

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Put some street zoomies on it! Nice lookin car too.

I dont know if there are any big tube Fox body swaps that are not custom made.
Another option is to use Hooker BBC headers for a tube chassis and cut the flanges off and weld the Ford flanges on. This is how my headers are on my 69 Mustang with tube chassis but it does look like I have more space. The headers are 2.2 into 4" collectors and no crossover.
I cant see the dents but those look great. The cross over pipe space constraint is not worth the gains.

looks like you have lots of room in some places but not so much in others. the driver side would be best run outside the 2x3 rail,IMO. a headman kit would be easy to put together if you could run outside the rail.  

Another vote for using a door car/roadster tube chassis "over the rail" BBC header kit from either Hooker or Headman, & then swap the BBC flange for a BBF flange.

That would be a cake walk to build headers for.  I know customs are a bit expensive because i have built a few sets for folks, but the end result is real nice and a better fit.

outlawbird wrote:That would be a cake walk to build headers for.  I know customs are a bit expensive because i have built a few sets for folks, but the end result is real nice and a better fit.

X2, and better performance too. Looks to me like getting away from those sharp turndowns at the exhaust port will most likely pu some HP.

I may have to just save up some $ and go for a good set.  Its one of those wish I had of done different things, but I had wanted to go with a set of TFS 'A" heads originally on this build. But decided against it for cost and having to come up with headers.  But this engine will make enough power for no more than I use the car for racing.  Send the heads to Charlie or someone to have them rubbed out and a cam swap it will do all I need.

Thanks everyone for the input. I will just hold off and work on coming up with a route to build my own or have a set built.

Greene

I think I'd be worried more about changing out those incorrect (short) studs... Get the right ones from Lem

Yes, I am thinking about pulling the motor this winter and fixing a few problems I didn't realize due to lack of experience when we did this motor.  And still debating the hole head issue on porting these or upgrade to P-51 heads.  And now that I know Lem and his shop I contact them to  provide most of the parts for the rehab to have it done properly this time.

Lol.. caught my eye especially because I made the same mistake..

I have a set of chassis headers that might fit depending on how wide your frame rails are . I also have an old set that fit a 70 that exits out the fenders . They are 2 1/4 tubes both sets.

sent you a PM KY