PROCOMP HEADS ------ STICKY------

The chamber is junk to.

Agreed Charlie and Richter..

The procomp exhaust port is actually quite good when properly ported and only when properly ported.

The intake geometry and flow bias suck as cast and can be improved with careful reshaping of the intake port roof, guide trenches and short turn crest. I have managed 360 cfm and more.

The issue is still quality of intake flow and an absolutely terrible combustion chamber design.

A fully worked pair of p/c castings against a good but not max effort pair of not mine Doves was marginally faster with the reduced static c/r of the larger chamber. Add the additional power that the c/r would bring and they are still woefully short of the other aluminum offerings.

so, is the compression chamber just to big, ??? or do you mean the shape of the chamber is bad ??

jc10000rpm wrote:so, is the compression chamber just to big, ??? or do you mean the shape of the chamber is bad ??

The chamber just LOOKS pretty awfull because it doesn't have a consistant circular outside shape to it; (like a bunch of connected short flat walls which doesn't adversely affect anything but is not very pleasing to the eye).

i have no experience with procomp ford heads but have seen horrible casting problems with chev smallblock heads. The chev blocks are no better either with problems in the main cap areas.

Where's the procomp hero Jeremiah?

Maddmattmustangs wrote:Where's the procomp hero Jeremiah?

You cant use ProComp and HeRo in the same paragraph.............

richter69 wrote:

Maddmattmustangs wrote:Where's the procomp hero Jeremiah?

You cant use ProComp and HeRo in the same paragraph.............

procrap ZeRo

richter69 wrote:

Maddmattmustangs wrote:Where's the procomp hero Jeremiah?

You cant use ProComp and HeRo in the same paragraph.............

My bad

come on guys lets keep this as technical a possible

thxs
Nick Bruno

bruno wrote:come on guys lets keep this as technical a possible

thxs
Nick Bruno

aint much technical in a procomp product..........

richter69 wrote:

bruno wrote:come on guys lets keep this as technical a possible

thxs
Nick Bruno

aint much technical in a procomp product..........

I've heard that on there bare castings the valve guides need honing or complete re machining in most instances. Also the valve seats are recessed far into the port messing with the short turn.

Valves in there assembled heads tend to have wide variations in stem diameter. Widest I've heard of being .060 over what's promoted. The bronze they use also has proven to be weaker than the standard.

Maddmattmustangs wrote:

richter69 wrote:

bruno wrote:come on guys lets keep this as technical a possible

thxs
Nick Bruno

aint much technical in a procomp product..........

I've heard that on there bare castings the valve guides need honing or complete re machining in most instances. Also the valve seats are recessed far into the port messing with the short turn.

Valves in there assembled heads tend to have wide variations in stem diameter. Widest I've heard of being .060 over what's promoted. The bronze they use also has proven to be weaker than the standard.

Getting the ASSEMBLED heads directly from ProComp is certainly not a good idea.
If anything, the seats are to tall in a BARE casting because a valve job is NOT done to them and that makes for GOOD reshaping possibilities. AND, there are NO valves in a BARE casting.
"Proven" bad bronze...??? I haven't seen it in the over 50 pair I've finished with good hardware. Having bad guide clearance set-up will eat-up anybodies bronze guides.

The "I've heard", my "buddy told me" and a "friend of a friend knows", shouldn't be construed as GOOD information; What you have actually witnessed and done yourself is all that should be discussed here.

Has anyone come up with a CNC program to correct the flaws in the chambers and ports?

when the CNC program can add material it might be possible...............

Just a question.

Could you mill the deck down just enough to reshape the chambers? I guess that would just add to the cost and not make budget sense for someone to do.

jones wrote:Has anyone come up with a CNC program to correct the flaws in the chambers and ports?

One can NOT CNC what is not there

I am going to equate this to small block Ford ProComp heads because that is where I can share actual CNC experiences.

I am a ProComp dealer and also a RHS dealer. Bare ProComp heads are about $500.00 less money per pair than the RHS.
The cheap A$$ street wienies just don't wish to pay the extra money for the better flowing, fitting, "out of the box" RHS head. Almost every one who walks through the door wanted to know if he could have the ProComp heads CNC'd and get a better flowing head in the end.
You simply can't talk sense to the 20 some year old who knows everything and has little money to spend.
To make a long story short ... I developed a CNC program for the 195cc ProComp heads.
Those idiots buy, the ProComp head and pay the extra $700.00 for the CNC work. I only work with bare heads in either case so the other parts and charges are the same.

The ProComp head now flows good, (not great), air but, for near the same amount of money outlay an RHS head of the same finished port size with hand "bowl porting" could have been had with only about 10% less maximum airflow; actually better down low.
However, now those customers can tell everyone they have CNC'd heads, as that is the major BUZZ word with the uninformed high performance enthusiast and they can all rave about what a good deal he got.

I have done a bunch of 'em and trying to talk sense to them just goes in one ear and out the other.

All aluminum heads have to be worked to out flow cast iron ported dove c heads. with out the port work as you say it's just a chunk of aluminum. For a street strip head they are great! For a race head they are great! I'd rather have a set of heads that are seat and valve Simi ready to run. Benefits are almost any valve job you decide to have done will not sink the valves into the heads. A good four angle valve job and a light hand blending of both intake and exhaust ports + smoothing out the short turn radius intake and exhaust without changing the factory radius. Most all super stock and pro stock heads come the same way as the pro comp heads do. For a street 460 ci. motor with from 425 to 500 hp only need a clean up of ports and a good valve job. The as cast exhaust flow will exceed 500 HP no problem. Like we say what are you looking for and how much power do you need? Why have a set of heads that flow enough air to run 700 + hp when you are using it on the street with mufflers and a restrictive air filter. One should only look at how much HP is your goal? and only spend the money to reach that goal. You go the other route and kill bottom and mid range torque because heads were massaged to flow enough air to support 800 or so HP?

seems legit....

I fell into the good (initially)price trap. bought them on e bay $1600 delivered to Calgary, I thought they looked ok except the corner of one had a flat spot where somebody had dropped it , but i dont s'pose thats indicative of all of them, They were advertised to be good to .600lift, when i took them to the engine builder to put onto the527 short block he just built he said i had to have all the valve pockets cut , then he had to do a valve job on them (as some guys here have said) and a couple of valves had to be replaced (bent stems) so all said Just over $2200 into a set of chinese knockoffs, I could have got my DOVE C heads done for $750 and been way ahead of the game, SO MY opinion and that's all it is , my opinion, I would NOT buy them again if i had it to do over !!!! Knowledge is King.........

I have a set of these. I ported and polished them myself. Took about 18 hours per head(I'm a perfectionist, sue me!) The biggest problem is the exhuast bend. Port the exhaust to the outline of a SCJ gasket, making the bend smooth not just bell-shaped at the end. Must be VERY careful not to get too drastic around the head blot holes on the exhaust side though. Take a good bite out of the port but not a huge one!
Saw a guy on YouTube that drilled the exhaust bolt holes and installed steel bushings in them. He left about .400 in the bottom of each hole to compress the head as the bolt through the bushing is torqued. I didn't feel the need to do this, but see it as a good safety step. I polished the chambers with black polish, then gray, then finally white for a truly smooth finish.
Flow IS power! You will spend a lot of time, which isn't a thing if you enjoy yourself(and I do). My heads are going on a 532, so I wanted the larger combustion chambers to give me more leeway in my compression as i increase stroke. I want to be able to run it on pump gas. 100LL is $5.65/gal at my local airport, so too pricey for a daily driver.
Long story short, get a good book on porting and spend a little time on letting your beast breathe! My heads after porting and polishing flowed 348/243 on a bench at standard pressure and temp(29.92/59*).