F150 Roll cage

As you all know I have been working on my 92-96 F150 Lightning clone. I have been wanting to get the roll cage installed before I get any further on the the interior. (paint, carpet, electronics) I have looked around for pre-bent cages and the only manufacturer is S&W. Their cage goes around the dash and just sounds like a box for a cage. A couple of months ago I watched Chucks thread unfold where Bill built a new cage for his new ride. Being impressed with Bills work in being able to fit Chuck this really sat a fire in me to have Bill do the cage in my truck. The drive is going to be a little long (9-10hrs) but there doesn't seem to be anyone local in my area that can bend a cage from scratch or that I could manage to be taken seriously. (unless it's a Mustang or Chevy)

Does anyone have any suggestion for things I should look into having him do for me? As I think it will be money savings rather than buying the tools I need to build a cage only to learn and do it one time?

I'd love to have the rear 4-linked and some type of front suspension made! Help me think this out!

I'd love to have the rear 4-linked and some type of front suspension made! Help me think this out!


Well sounds like tube all the way

K.eep I.t S.imple S.tupid.............

Start-off with what you've got and add to it later when you know what it needs and where it want to be. No need to get you arse in front of your wallet.....

res0rli9 wrote:I'd love to have the rear 4-linked and some type of front suspension made! Help me think this out!


Well sounds like tube all the way

Don't have the money. Yet I rather spend a little extra now and be done. The engine build taught me that lesson. I was quoted 15,000 for a tube chassis.

Here is what I have been planning for the suspension.
Drop I-beams in the front.
Cal-trac, slapper bar or Rancho bar with the leaf springs in the rear.

dfree383 wrote:K.eep I.t S.imple S.tupid.............

Start-off with what you've got and add to it later when you know what it needs and where it want to be. No need to get you arse in front of your wallet.....

I learned from the engine build that I could have a A460, forged crankshaft, aluminum cylinder heads and built by now if I had just started building what I needed from the get go.

I know that if I am still living there will be a 1,000 hp engine in this truck. Right now it's only a 800hp with a snort of nitrous.

I was J/K. Yes KISS.. keep it simple. I would just make due with what you have now and get the motor done. like dfree said

So ya'll believe I should just hold out on all the roll cage stuff untill I start racing the truck?

If you can't tell I am really having problems with the proper order things should be done in.

baby steps and ONE at a time.. get the motor running and then move on to the next step. But get the motor done first.
just M/O

OR you could be like dumb a## me and work on two cars at the same time, get tired of working one and then go work on the other one, and so on and so on. gess how they run. well im still working on them lol. but if id just stay on one. Id be driving or raceing one of them.

I would have had the engine finished by now when we first started planning this. (Christmas / Spring ??) If I hadn't sold everything! LOL

Guess I'll have to post pone the event.

What will it run ET wise?

At least stick a bar in there to be legal...

There was a thread on the bullet with some F150 cage pics in it. Not sure which thread though.

Cage it now so it will cert to 8.50 and be done with it and by all means give Bill a call, he is a straight shooter and will not sale you something you don't need...

jbozzelle wrote:What will it run ET wise?

At least stick a bar in there to be legal...

There was a thread on the bullet with some F150 cage pics in it. Not sure which thread though.

My goal has been to run low 10's streetable in the 1/4 and 9's if it was a full out race truck. 6.0 index 1/8 mile class. (Goal's)

Then cage it now. A good cage is worth it's weight in gold.

Just have Bill do something nice where the bars go through the window. Maybe go through the body above the window or have him trim the bar in sheetmetal and then notch the glass...

D. Sea wrote:Cage it now so it will cert to 8.50 and be done with it and by all means give Bill a call, he is a straight shooter and will not sale you something you don't need...

We have been emailing back and forth for some time now. He wanted me to make sure I couldn't find anyone around here. I have been to some local shops looking at work and talking to the owners. No one is skilled enough to do what I ask. I'll tell them I want a cage bent tight to the body, yet I want to keep the interior panels. I want it bent to fit me exactly so I will have al the room I need. Then by the time we are finished talking they are telling me how they will just order a pre-bent cage (which I wil pay for) and then charge me $1,200 to notch and install!

One guy even showed me a customers car that he was working on that he was waiting on to finish, while he could get paid for other work to buy the materials he needed to finish. Sad thing was the fit and finish was scarry bad!

Have Bill M. do a nice and simple Moly Cage, keep the leaves and stock suspension for now. Put some adjustable shock's and good wheels and tires and GO HAVE FUN.

Upgrade as you get the time and $$$$

Dougs Truck is a good example of evolution.............. He Started with nothing and has built a pretty damn nice truck along the way and I'm guessing it will keep evolving...... a Little nicer each season..... a little faster......

I agree with everyone get a simple cage installed now that will certify to what your basic needs are and as time and money allow you can have upgrades installed if you wait till money is available to do everything at one time you'll not be racing near as soon and I am guessing some racing is better than no racing or at least it would be for me.

Oh ya,, I really want to go racing! Right now I wouldn't care if I was a blind, one legged man in a ass kicking contest.

Let me find that thread on yellowbullet for you. I want to say the shop doing the work was around Baton Rouge, LA, maybe Prairieville....


Also, PM "Blue Oval Forever" on here. Bobby is a friend of mine here locally. He also has a Gen 1 Lightning. And another friend of ours, Tim Palmisano, just did a CM cage for him. All custom bent too. Tim does good work. Not sure how far of a drive it is for you to come down here but it's another option. If anything get some pics from Bobby and get an idea of what you want.

jbozzelle wrote:Then cage it now. A good cage is worth it's weight in gold.

Just have Bill do something nice where the bars go through the window. Maybe go through the body above the window or have him trim the bar in sheetmetal and then notch the glass...

A cage is not only a required safety device, but also is a chassis stiffening and tuning device. Once you get this thing running you don't want to wear the motor out trying to get the truck to go down the track or even hook. Get it done now and decide how fast you eventually want to go also. Plan it out and stick with it. Once the cage and suspension is ironed out and in place you will be able to add more power to the truck and it willl handle it. Here is the link to my build........... take in mind that it has been 4 years now but I am still on track and doing everything myself except for the paint and body work....

https://www.429-460.com/proven-builds-f4/galaxie-build-lots-of-pics-update-june-28-t2619.htm

Oh and by the way thanks for selling me your nice D3 cylinder heads. They are going to work gret on my tow build.

Travis

Travis,
Your build is awsome and orderly where I have stuff scattered every where. I just try to do something everytime I go out there. I guess that's how I end-up with 6 things started and one finished.

I'm glad you like the heads, and sorry about the Duck Tape! I didn't want the card board to come loose or off. The guy asked me when I shipped them off how I was expecting you to open it. I told him hopefully with a very sharp knife, it's cast iron it won't hurt!

The trick to looking orderly is straighten up before you take ay pictures .............. I really am no more organized than anyone else. 40 things tore apart and 50 things to do yet I know where you are at. I have been 4 years now.

Travis

If your shooting for just the NHRA absolute bare minimum "rule book" roll cage specs why not save some money & go with mild steel vs 'moly. And don't forget that the NHRA rule book minimum cage specs DON'T apply to the passenger side door bars or rocker bars (if used). So if your cage is going to use them you can make them out of whatever OD & wall thickness tubing you want.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:If your shooting for just the NHRA absolute bare minimum "rule book" roll cage specs why not save some money & go with mild steel vs 'moly. And don't forget that the NHRA rule book minimum cage specs DON'T apply to the passenger side door bars or rocker bars (if used). So if your cage is going to use them you can make them out of whatever OD & wall thickness tubing you want.

Really, I never knew that.

If your going to do the cage, Build it to NHRA spec and IMO the Moly is a good idea if you want to save a little weight. A few Extra bars doesn't hurt......

Build it so it can be or will be certified, it will be easier to sell later if you get tired of it and want to ditch it.