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High how of RPMs

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richter69
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kjett
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Post  466coupe March 28th 2011, 8:40 pm

I was wondering what kind of RPMs i could turn, its a stock crank that has been turned, recon truck rods. Forged pistons, Whats a safe number ? with a small tire at 6000 rpm at 1000 ft we went 9.98@140.2. Want to see if i can turn it up or start saving for better parts

Thanks Wes

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Post  quick 52 March 28th 2011, 9:01 pm

that flying but your mph seem high by 7 or 8 you can run them up to 6500 on a mild build. but your dont sound that mild great et.
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Post  c.evans March 28th 2011, 9:08 pm

You said "forged pistons", my question is how much do your pistons and pins weigh? Also, at what rpm are you going through the traps now?

Charlie


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Post  466coupe March 28th 2011, 9:14 pm

c.evans wrote:You said "forged pistons", my question is how much do your pistons and pins weigh? Also, at what rpm are you going through the traps now?

Charlie


Honestly i dont know weights etc, im an idiot painter this new to me. On a 26" it was on rev limiter @1000 ft 6000 rpm, with 28" it was 135@ 5800. With 30" not sure havent ran yet. With head work and new intake we are flowing 400cfm@800. He tells me i need more rpm? diferent cam. Trying to see whats somewhat safe

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Post  kjett March 28th 2011, 11:08 pm

The crank will hanle wel lover 7000, it's those stock rods I'd be more worried about. On my 466, I spin the stock crank with SCAT h-beams and forged pistons to 72-7400 and not even think about it. Very Happy
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Post  c.evans March 28th 2011, 11:46 pm

Well, I am not knocking your lack of knowledge about the engine. However, if you don't know what the piston or pin weighs, you most likely don't know what the valves weigh, what the retainers weigh, or what valve springs you have on it. I'd say you're in the danger zone with anything above 6,200 or 6,300 rpm. It's simply a matter of physics that the loads on the connecting rod, and rod bolts increase exponentially with any increase in rpm. I'd strongly suggest that you start saving for better parts.

Charlie

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Post  kjett March 29th 2011, 12:08 am

c.evans wrote:Well, I am not knocking your lack of knowledge about the engine. However, if you don't know what the piston or pin weighs, you most likely don't know what the valves weigh, what the retainers weigh, or what valve springs you have on it. I'd say you're in the danger zone with anything above 6,200 or 6,300 rpm. It's simply a matter of physics that the loads on the connecting rod, and rod bolts increase exponentially with any increase in rpm. I'd strongly suggest that you start saving for better parts.

Charlie

Charlie, was that at me or 466coupe? I spent a bunch of time balancing my whole deal and getting the whole combo right with Freelanders and Lem's help. You are absolutely right in saying that he needs to save for better parts and needs to know what all he has to make it work. Too many look at throw this and that together without looking at the entire package. Fortunately for me, I found the people to help me understand that before I did some dumb stuff!
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Post  c.evans March 29th 2011, 12:20 am

kjett,

That was an answer to the original poster. He's the one running truck rods and doesn't know what the pistons weigh,,,,, you're running H-beam rods and have done your homework.

Charlie

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Post  kjett March 29th 2011, 12:24 am

It's all good, just got a little worried someone foud out I really don't know crap Embarassed If it weren't for Lem, Dave, and a few of you other KY boys, I wouldn't have made my "baby motor" scream like it does. Very Happy
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Post  dfree383 March 29th 2011, 7:17 am

The Stock rods will live pretty good at 7000 with light pistons and pins, but typical TRW type stuff is on the iffy side because they are "Very Heavy".

Set of SCAT Hbeams are a good investment IMO along with a good set of lighter pistons and pins.

Charlie makes a good point, you need to know everything you have before you start pushing it. More, More More can lead to Catastrophic Failure in a hurry........

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Post  466coupe March 29th 2011, 9:33 am

Thanks for the imput, i think livernois did a good job on the short block. The pistons are JE, My TFS heads now flow 400@800 with that said my machine guy wants to go bigger can and a roller, says it may need more RPM. Im running 671 flat tappet and 6000-6200 is working nice

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Post  466coupe March 29th 2011, 9:34 am

Thanks agian guys any imput helpful. Any suggestions on cam also are welcome

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Post  dfree383 March 29th 2011, 9:38 am

466coupe wrote:Thanks for the imput, i think livernois did a good job on the short block. The pistons are JE, My TFS heads now flow 400@800 with that said my machine guy wants to go bigger can and a roller, says it may need more RPM. Im running 671 flat tappet and 6000-6200 is working nice

Which TFS Heads?

Id say your combo has a whole lot more in it, but better look at some better rods, before you upgrade elsewhere.
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Post  kjett March 29th 2011, 9:41 am

There goes Dave, always looking at the rod Razz clown
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Post  bigblockfox468 March 29th 2011, 9:48 am

466coupe wrote:Thanks for the imput, i think livernois did a good job on the short block.

Off topic here coupe. You say Livernois are you in my neck of the country? (Meechegan that is Laughing )

Sounds like you got a runner there. Converting from a flat tappet to a roller will be kind of costly Shocked not just a bolt on deal.
dfree and Charlie are good ones to listen to Wink
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Post  richter69 March 29th 2011, 10:19 am

Over 400 on a street head???????
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Post  466coupe March 29th 2011, 10:52 am

bigblockfox468 wrote:
466coupe wrote:Thanks for the imput, i think livernois did a good job on the short block.

Off topic here coupe. You say Livernois are you in my neck of the country? (Meechegan that is Laughing )

Sounds like you got a runner there. Converting from a flat tappet to a roller will be kind of costly Shocked not just a bolt on deal.
dfree and Charlie are good ones to listen to Wink

I live in Nebraska, i drove there to buy the short block. Isky tells me he can stay with same cam and work with duration to be efficient and work in the same RPM range, or they can sell me a roller set up for around $1100.

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Post  466coupe March 29th 2011, 10:59 am

richter69 wrote:Over 400 on a street head???????

I will try to post up some numbers. From trick flow they say @0.700 350 240 We have picked up some we are pushing 400 and now working on new TFS intake

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Post  dfree383 March 29th 2011, 11:00 am

You need to work with someone like Randy Malik or Lem Evans (Plus alot of others around here) that know these engines / Combs

Talking with the ISKY's or any other cam companies tech like will get you very "generic help"and most of the time will be leving alot on the table.

You also need to provide complete information about you engine, type of heads, all the flows, what parts you are using Etc....
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Post  466coupe March 29th 2011, 11:16 am

It is a 1970 lincon 460/.30 over
stock crank has been turned
recon truck rods
670 solid flat tappet cam 258 dur
all bolts are arp/studs
heads are TFS 429/460 right now we are just over 400 @0.800
intake was a torkerII/ now new TFS victor style
carb is a 1000cfm demon
trans was a c6 no brake / new is a glide with a TB
car is roughly 3000lbs with me
315/60 drag radial
rear gear is 373
headers are hooker super comp
old converter was a TCI 3500

and yes i will need new converter also, this is why im trying to pick your brains
Thanks wes

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Post  dfree383 March 29th 2011, 11:26 am

Try a 1050 dominator on the new Intake. They tend to run a little faster down the track from my experiance.

Yes a Roller Cam is going to net you some big improvements, but will cost a Little $$$ and you will need to look at your complete valvetrain. Look for something custom ground for the application, the on the shelf stuff it to general to get the most out of what you have.

Yes a Real Torque Convertor will get you some more big gains too. Maybe even consider going to a Glide.

You may alse see some improvement with some better headers and collectors (Provided your running with out an exhaust)
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Post  peganit2 March 29th 2011, 12:12 pm

kjett wrote:The crank will hanle wel lover 7000, it's those stock rods I'd be more worried about. On my 466, I spin the stock crank with SCAT h-beams and forged pistons to 72-7400 and not even think about it. Very Happy

I want to hear that at full song!

What kind of valve train do you have in it?

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Post  466coupe March 29th 2011, 12:28 pm

dfree383 wrote:Try a 1050 dominator on the new Intake. They tend to run a little faster down the track from my experiance.

Yes a Roller Cam is going to net you some big improvements, but will cost a Little $$$ and you will need to look at your complete valvetrain. Look for something custom ground for the application, the on the shelf stuff it to general to get the most out of what you have.

Yes a Real Torque Convertor will get you some more big gains too. Maybe even consider going to a Glide.

You may alse see some improvement with some better headers and collectors (Provided your running with out an exhaust)

Cool thanks , i do have a glide now. Also what are you thinking for headers. My super comps are the big tubes with 3.5 collectors

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Post  kjett March 29th 2011, 1:41 pm

peganit2 wrote:
kjett wrote:The crank will hanle wel lover 7000, it's those stock rods I'd be more worried about. On my 466, I spin the stock crank with SCAT h-beams and forged pistons to 72-7400 and not even think about it. Very Happy

I want to hear that at full song!

What kind of valve train do you have in it?

It don't sound all that bad. It's a comp solid roller, springs, lifters, pushing FMS SCJ valves (thanks Lem!) in ported D0VE-c's (Thanks Dave!). Here was a run last year:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZBeUw6OXY

More changes in gearing, some intake and exhaust work, and some more tweaking on the carb have been done so it should sound better when I get it out this year!
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Post  dfree383 March 29th 2011, 1:50 pm

466coupe wrote:
dfree383 wrote:Try a 1050 dominator on the new Intake. They tend to run a little faster down the track from my experiance.

Yes a Roller Cam is going to net you some big improvements, but will cost a Little $$$ and you will need to look at your complete valvetrain. Look for something custom ground for the application, the on the shelf stuff it to general to get the most out of what you have.

Yes a Real Torque Convertor will get you some more big gains too. Maybe even consider going to a Glide.

You may alse see some improvement with some better headers and collectors (Provided your running with out an exhaust)

Cool thanks , i do have a glide now. Also what are you thinking for headers. My super comps are the big tubes with 3.5 collectors

D&D, Kooks, Accufab all make some nice on the shelf stuff with slip-on sollectors and various tube sizes.

You could cut off the collectors on your hookers and try some different styles / lengths.


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