Budget Street/Strip Stroker Build Advice w/ Existing Parts plus???

Have a couple std bore 4-bolts lying around if he wants to trade ( oh no 1-is .010)...

Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!

I don't understand the purpose of this entire thread.  
The guy asks for "THOUGHTS" and when they don't agrtee with his own, just wishes to argue with almost everybody.

Build it however you want with whatever rod ratio "floats your boat"  if you already have a plan of what you are going to do and simply using this forum to try and get justification for those plans; see ya later and have a good day.  

An OEM 429/460 block is NOT even close to sharing the weaknesses of a Cleveland block by any stretch of the imagination so, stop even trying to float a comparison between the two.  

rmcomprandy wrote:I don't understand the purpose of this entire thread.  
The guy asks for "THOUGHTS" and when they don't agrtee with his own, just wishes to argue with almost everybody.

Build it however you want with whatever rod ratio "floats your boat"  if you already have a plan of what you are going to do and simply using this forum to try and get justification for those plans; see ya later and have a good day.  

An OEM 429/460 block is NOT even close to sharing the weaknesses of a Cleveland block by any stretch of the imagination so, stop even trying to float a comparison between the two.  

I sent you a PM

[quote="FalconEh"]

rmcomprandy wrote:I don't understand the purpose of this entire thread.  
The guy asks for "THOUGHTS" and when they don't agrtee with his own, just wishes to argue with almost everybody.

Build it however you want with whatever rod ratio "floats your boat"  if you already have a plan of what you are going to do and simply using this forum to try and get justification for those plans; see ya later and have a good day.  

An OEM 429/460 block is NOT even close to sharing the weaknesses of a Cleveland block by any stretch of the imagination so, stop even trying to float a comparison between the two.  

I am not arguing I am debating based off if my best judgement, the more information and opinions presented breed a more in depth conversation, which is part of getting to know those who are providing the answers, because I do not take the first response as gospel does not mean I am arguing with the higher powers I am just looking for further detail to make a properly informed decision. I am not using this forum to justify my plans, or offend any of it's members, including you rmcomprandy I replied to you with many questions however I guess uninformed people like me must get on your nerves, oe maybe it is just me for that I am sorry, I am here because I have the Blue Oval blood running through my veins, I watched many posts before signing up looked at the pictures and have lived vicariously through many of the members projects, all while thinking of what my next one will be. As for the cleveland comparison I have wanted to make the change for a long time and that is another reason I am here(only collected parts until now), so I apologize that that is the only comparision that I have ,including the Clevelands weaknesses for the last 30 years. I am not blessed with your engine knowledge, or machining ability but I am willing to contribute and learn...sorry I am arguing again.

Hey man dont sweat it...... everyone gets on his nerves, it'll be A OK I promise lol.

Thanks Richter69...nuf said!

Falcon get you a 4.3 forged crank a set of 6.8 rods and a set of .030 pistons and you have a 521 a set of SCJ heads and it will eat like a big dog good combo same money andyou will be happy...

the Coug wrote:Falcon get you a 4.3 forged crank a set of 6.8 rods and a set of .030 pistons and you have a 521 a set of SCJ heads and it will eat like a big dog good combo same money andyou will be happy...

Did coug just say "Happy" ????

dfree383 wrote:

the Coug wrote:Falcon get you a 4.3 forged crank a set of 6.8 rods and a set of .030 pistons and you have a 521 a set of SCJ heads and it will eat like a big dog good combo same money andyou will be happy...

Did coug just say "Happy" ????

Shocking... isn't it ?

saying and being...... not the same

I don't mind giving pertenant information but, when the conversation gets around to comparing the bad points of apples against grapefruits ... I won't be in that conversation and I have no understanding why it is even taking place.

engines
fruits
motorcycles
cars
houses
trailers
etc. whatever
ONE has NOTHING to do with most concepts of another.

A 501 costs the same to build as a 557? What about starting with a seasoned block and letting grow as needed? Eliminating the exception block that after sonic testing can actually live with a 4.5 inch bore shouldn't most overbores start at +.030 and end at +.080?

Dark Horse of Apocalypse wrote:A 501 costs the same to build as a 557? What about starting with a seasoned block and letting grow as needed? Eliminating the exception block that after sonic testing can actually live with a 4.5 inch bore shouldn't most overbores start at +.030 and end at +.080?

I think you should take your money and go buy a Clue those engines take almost none of the same parts except the block. they use different cranks and way different pistons so if you go smaller and decide to go bigger you have to almost start over from scratch. Now it is your money, if I were you I would forget spending it wisely and just blow the heck out of it. evidently you have a money Tree, so blow it away.....oh you are worried about the block a stock block will be the least expensive thing in the build. do what you want what ever makes your drawers happy.

One thing I don't understand is why you guys always come here and ask questions that you evidently already know the answers too?


have a great life

Hey guy just for the sake of it I have 2 534 short blocks here and I would love for you to guess how much cash I have in each one.
If you look and wait and search for parts this is what you can build...

#1 534 scj 4 bolt block
Eagle 4340 forged crank 4.3 stroke
Eagle 6.8 H beam rods
Diamond 4.44 13.5 to 1 pistons


#2 534 Boss 429 Block
Eagle 4.3 4340 forged crank
Eagle 6.8 H beam rods
Eagle 4.44 Hemi Pistons 13.7 to 1

[quote="FalconEh"]

Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]

Dave De wrote:

FalconEh wrote:

Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]

Got a little sideways, Thank-You - I will have to see where the cyl head budget ends up, don't mind the solids still need to fly cut for roller but the cam will be a later topic...

Is coug still happy?

Never

FalconEh wrote:

Dave De wrote:

FalconEh wrote:

Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]

Got a little sideways, Thank-You - I will have to see where the cyl head budget ends up, don't mind the solids still need to fly cut for roller but the cam will be a later topic...

No need to cut the pistons if you by them for the heads. I think you can go low 9s without spray and still be streetable. The weight needs to be below 3000 pounds.

Dave De wrote:

FalconEh wrote:

Dave De wrote:

FalconEh wrote:

Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Hey Dave De,
 What is your take on the buy/build knowing what it is and where I am going with it...as the description says your opinion counts!
[/quote
I dont know what the trouble is here with all the controversy. If you want to go low 9s on spray then biuld your pump gas motor to run 10.0s
A 4 bolt factory block will be best and the stroke should be 4.15 to 4.3 forged with 6.7 or 6.8 h beams. SCJs will work but if you can go P-51s all the more being better. You could also use a flat tappet while leaving some on the table for longevity. ]

Got a little sideways, Thank-You - I will have to see where the cyl head budget ends up, don't mind the solids still need to fly cut for roller but the cam will be a later topic...

  No need to cut the pistons if you by them for the heads. I think you can go low 9s without spray and still be streetable. The weight needs to be below 3000 pounds.

The sub 3000# may or may not happen depending on the body that materalizes' but mid -low 10's off the bottle will spray into the 9's is right in line with what I am looking for...low 9's off the bottle... The car may not be the only one in need of a diaper on the spray

the Coug wrote:Falcon get you a 4.3 forged crank a set of 6.8 rods and a set of .030 pistons and you have a 521 a set of SCJ heads and it will eat like a big dog good combo same money andyou will be happy...

not so happy with the .030 pistons though

the Coug wrote:

Dark Horse of Apocalypse wrote:A 501 costs the same to build as a 557? What about starting with a seasoned block and letting grow as needed? Eliminating the exception block that after sonic testing can actually live with a 4.5 inch bore shouldn't most overbores start at +.030 and end at +.080?

I think you should take your money and go buy a Clue those engines take almost none of the same parts except the block. they use different cranks and way different pistons so if you go smaller and decide to go bigger you have to almost start over from scratch. Now it is your money, if I were you I would forget spending it wisely and just blow the heck out of it. evidently you have a money Tree, so blow it away.....oh you are worried about the block a stock block will be the least expensive thing  in the build. do what you want what ever makes your drawers happy.

One thing I don't understand is why you guys always come here and ask questions that you evidently already know the answers too?


have a great life

Thanks for the candid explanation of the situation. Unfortunately I ain't no Silver Spoon in mouth Trust Fund Baby so "I Owe I Owe it's of to work I Go."

the Coug wrote:Hey guy just for the sake of it I have 2 534 short blocks here and I would love for you to guess how much cash I have in each one.  
If you look and wait and search for parts this is what you can build...

#1 534 scj 4 bolt block
Eagle 4340 forged crank 4.3 stroke
Eagle 6.8 H beam rods
Diamond 4.44 13.5 to 1 pistons


#2 534 Boss 429 Block
Eagle 4.3 4340 forged crank
Eagle 6.8 H beam rods  
Eagle 4.44 Hemi Pistons 13.7 to 1

Dave De wrote:Hey Falcon,
We are similar, my pro-street runs 9.20s in good air at 148mph on motor and the street cant take the power but at the track I could use a shot to put it into the 8s. I cant put my foot to the wood without it going up in smoke even at 70mph.
I wonder how these street racers do it. They must have aluminum small blocks to reduce the nose weight.

If my track was an hour away I'd still trailer it.

Sounds like you have it figured out. Is the trailer preventive maintenance? I.e. If it breaks you already got its ride home??

After reading your posts, it has become apparent that you need to do more reading/studying, and less inane posting.