eliminator 605

I like it. Very nice work.

Barney wrote:I like it. Very nice work.

thanks my intake looks to take a sbf water neck but its got 3 bolt holes i have a nice bbc i made to work on my ex514 intake but the damn o-ring runs across the "bastard" bolt hole.

Mine takes a SBF water neck.

cool40 wrote:

Barney wrote:I like it. Very nice work.

thanks my intake looks to take a sbf water neck but its got 3 bolt holes i have a nice bbc i made to work on my ex514 intake but the damn o-ring runs across the "bastard" bolt hole.

Can't you just have the odd hole welded up and machined down?


Ace

powerstrokeace wrote:

cool40 wrote:

Barney wrote:I like it. Very nice work.

thanks my intake looks to take a sbf water neck but its got 3 bolt holes i have a nice bbc i made to work on my ex514 intake but the damn o-ring runs across the "bastard" bolt hole.

Can't you just have the odd hole welded up and machined down?


Ace

i could have done that the sbf neck should cover it tho....

Lee,

You will most likely need to make some new headers. If not all new headers, then at the least you will need to re-flange the ones you have.

Here's the deal. Your old Ford Motorsports A-460 heads have the exhaust ports on the Ford 4.900" bore spacing and likewise the Chevy header bolt pattern is on 4.900" bore spacing. We used to take a one piece Chevy header flange and saw it completely into in three places (between each port). Then spread everything .060" and bolt them up.

Your current IDT heads have the exhaust ports on the Ford 4.900" bore spacing,,,,,but the Chevy header bolt pattern is on the 4.840" Chevy bore spacing. So, they can take a one piece Chevy header flange,,,,,however the port exit location within the Chevy bolt hole pattern is slightly different on every port.

I would suugest that you make a cardboard or poster board template of the exhaust side of the head. I use a little ball peen hammer and go around tapping in all my bolt holes and also the i.d. of the port itself. Then after proper trimming, lay you template up against your current header flange and you'll see what the differences look like.

Hope this helps,
Uncle Charlie

c.evans wrote:Lee,

You will most likely need to make some new headers. If not all new headers, then at the least you will need to re-flange the ones you have.

Here's the deal. Your old Ford Motorsports A-460 heads have the exhaust ports on the Ford 4.900" bore spacing and likewise the Chevy header bolt pattern is on 4.900" bore spacing. We used to take a one piece Chevy header flange and saw it completely into in three places (between each port). Then spread everything .060" and bolt them up.

Your current IDT heads have the exhaust ports on the Ford 4.900" bore spacing,,,,,but the Chevy header bolt pattern is on the 4.840" Chevy bore spacing. So, they can take a one piece Chevy header flange,,,,,however the port exit location within the Chevy bolt hole pattern is slightly different on every port.

I would suugest that you make a cardboard or poster board template of the exhaust side of the head. I use a little ball peen hammer and go around tapping in all my bolt holes and also the i.d. of the port itself. Then after proper trimming, lay you template up against your current header flange and you'll see what the differences look like.

Hope this helps,
Uncle Charlie

i used chevy headers on the old heads and cut them up like you're talking about.i'll check that out,thanks Charlie!

Vroom vroom....

Something tells me this thing is going to be NASTY

soupbean wrote:Something tells me this thing is going to be NASTY

it's sure took long enough i just hope it starts

i just hate it when things dont work like they should.the damn water pump hose comes out over the nice timing pointer! now i wish i'd a got the remote pump,sob!

Man that is some awfully nice parts right there!!!

soupbean wrote:Man that is some awfully nice parts right there!!!

you need a new water pump?

LOL. No but I'll give you 500 for that Dampner and Danny bee

Ofcourse you might as well throw in that engine plate and timing tab. Hell, might as well throw in the crank trigger deal too

soupbean wrote:Ofcourse you might as well throw in that engine plate and timing tab. Hell, might as well throw in the crank trigger deal too

tight ass......

Right

Lee,

The water pump should have two exit holes. Go to the other side (driver) and remove the plug that is that side and then use that same plug and block off the passenger side with it. Then put your hose fitting in the hole on the driver side.

Charlie

c.evans wrote:Lee,

The water pump should have two exit holes. Go to the other side (driver) and remove the plug that is that side and then use that same plug and block off the passenger side with it. Then put your hose fitting in the hole on the driver side.

Charlie

He probably has a chevy radiator in it....................

IDT-572 wrote:

c.evans wrote:Lee,

The water pump should have two exit holes. Go to the other side (driver) and remove the plug that is that side and then use that same plug and block off the passenger side with it. Then put your hose fitting in the hole on the driver side.

Charlie

He probably has a chevy radiator in it....................

i have a RJ double pass deal in it.both hoses go on the same side i also have the crank trigger on the driver side,custom hillbilly pickup mounted under the water pump. it aint like i'll be checking the timing much anyway

not sure why you even need a radiator.......

richter69 wrote:not sure why you even need a radiator.......

105*days,lol.i'm gona start it on gas!

lastbsummeirbwhen it was 110 plus I used block heaters lol.

cool40 wrote:

soupbean wrote:Something tells me this thing is going to be NASTY

it's sure took long enough i just hope it starts

Run it out the other side,it belongs on the D/S SIDE . There should be a plug to remove on the LH. side